Где-то в октябре, у нас начало часто спускать колесо. Когда переодели колеса, нас сказали шо один диск погнут и его промазали, чтоб не спускал.
а запаска r13-докатка, на такой далеко не уедешь…
И ездили мы так месяц, подкачивали каждые 2-3 дня…
Но однажды утром, естесственоо в рабочий день, я выхожу греть барашка, и вижу, что колесо спустило "в хлам"!
Прямо вообще полностью, такого никогда еще не было. (максимум спускало до 1,2-1,6 атмосфер)
бу запасок на такой размер нету.
Нашли новую штамповку за 1690р… заказали…
а потом нашли литье, за 1150р! ЗАКАЗАЛИ.
Привезли на след день (доставка 200р)
Пставили без проишествий))
оказалось, что диск еще и треснут.
Бараний диск потом починим — цена вопроса 1700-2000 р (выправка+варка)
19 ноября 2018 Промо
Легкосплавные диски – это яркий акцент в дизайне автомобиля, и на многих моделях в высших комплектациях они установлены уже из завода. Но, к сожалению, литые диски созданы не для наших дорог и часто становятся их жертвами.
Что рекомендуют эксперты?
Однажды мы заехали на нашем ŠKODA KODIAQ в ŠKODA «Авто Сити». Мастер заметил, что один диск у нас погнут и посоветовал это исправить как можно быстрее. Он же и объяснил нам, что повреждение и деформация диска может иметь серьезные последствия и даже влиять на безопасность эксплуатации автомобиля.
Если после попадания в яму, выбоину или «волны» после фур на асфальте колесный диск получил серьезную «травму» и, особенно, трещины – его необходимо сразу же заменить, как и камеру, что пропускает воздух. Но иногда одно влечет за собой другое, так как диск после деформации уже не так плотно прилегает к шине. Если же на диске вмятина, а резина целая – лучшим выходом будет смена колеса на запаску и визит на ближайшую СТО для выравнивания диска.
Почему деформированный диск опасен
Если литый диск после большой ямы или выбоины получил деформацию, не стоит продолжать ездить на нем, это чревато серьезными последствиями. Неправильная форма диска ведет к нарушению развала-схождения. Нарушенная балансировка способствует появлению вибрации, быстрому и неравномерному износу резины, увеличению тормозного пути, износу и некорректной работе подвески. Но даже эти моменты не так опасны, как риск самопроизвольной разбортировки на ходу.
Серьезность ситуации при повреждении литого диска зависит от степени. Если вмятина несущественна, нет утечки воздуха и вибрации в ходу, то возможно экстренно равнять или менять его и не стоит. На таком диске поездить можно до запланированного ТО или сезонной смены резины.
Если же вы ощущаете вибрацию, руль «ведет» или шина стала спускать, а повреждение диска составило больше 5 см – вам однозначно нужно его реанимировать на СТО.
Самое важное и главное это понимать, что установка сторонних аксессуаров на автомобиль, не сертифицированных производителем, может иметь крайне негативные последствия для эксплуатационных характеристик автомобиля и гарантии.
Остались вопросы? Обращайтесь к официальным представителям ŠKODA «Авто Сити» и «Мэйджор Авто», где вы сможете получить консультацию, помощь по ремонту или замене диска, а также выбрать новые диски с огромного сертифицированного ассортимента.
Загляните в нашу группу Вконтакте.
Материалы рубрики «Промо» публикуются на правах рекламы.
Perhaps it would be correct to say that the reason for the essay
here is such an "innocent" revelation:
Everything is cooked and painted … But Rays !
" I took a TE-37 kit for the winter while I ride, and there we can see how they will survive the winter, since the SSR Type-F bent several times and burst twice (they are already sold) (!)
The weight of the disc is 5.3 kg., Surprisingly, the Type-C SSR weighs 5.2 kg in the same parameters, although the spokes of the SSR are much thinner!
And since I often change discs on my cars, the record is more for future customers to buy these discs!
Discs were purchased in satisfactory condition.
Two with cracks in the inner rim, one on each (were welded)
One disk with deep scratches on two spokes + border (were welded)
One drive ideally.
On one, after welding, an unevenness was detected on the inner rim (he didn’t edit, it will go for winter)
Initially, all the discs were in their native paint, repainted in white because of my preferences.
Painted with acrylic in compliance with all standards!
Discs are equipped with easy alloy valves, stickers on the go.
The final cost of the discs was 15t.r., I think it is not very expensive for the original TE-37. "
That’s how it is in real life!
And it also happens that they’re “brewed well” and painted already in Japan itself,
and then at an auction for Russian resellers …
Now imagine the same story but with alloy wheels from Japan …
This is already a full guard!
Therefore, I decided to share not popular knowledge.
(not popular because, anyway, most
go and buy this "boiled mine delayed action")
So we read and try to accept very simple knowledge (everything is logical and understandable):
Why buy a new one if you can fix the old?
(further almost only quotes)
"… So every practical person thinks, much less a car owner, the maintenance costs of which are already quite high. The desire to save applies also to rims in the wheels, which still“ drive and ride. ”Repair damaged wheels rims are now offered in almost every tire fitting, praising professional equipment and the golden hands of staff, however, is it possible to repair rims at all? Let’s figure it out together!
So, you can damage the rim anywhere and anytime. The degree of damage itself depends solely on two “values” — the terrain (pit, speed bump, stone punch on the side of the rim, etc.) and the speed of the car. It is impossible to observe the unconditional rule “you go slower — you will continue”, therefore virtually every car owner faced damage to the rims. Much depends on the type of rim. Depending on the material and method of production, the wheels have a different degree of strength: stamped steel bend, and cast aluminum — give cracks. Both those and others in repair shops offer "cure" by welding.
The doubtfulness of the event lies already in the fact that if it is technically pure steel stamping that can be assembled into its original form even from fragments by welding, the production technology of a cast aluminum disk does not imply any operations other than directly casting the metal into the mold. In other words, a damaged cast aluminum disk is easier to re-melt and cast in a special form again than to weld cracks on the surface using argon welding. The fundamental difference between steel stamping and aluminum cast discs lies in the structure of molecular bonds of metals. Due to the fragility of the compound of molecules in a cast disk, it cannot be heated at all, even locally. In the place of heating, aluminum will “float” and simply become thinner, which will entail a complete loss of resistance to loads and consumer characteristics. Read more about the production process of cast aluminum wheels here. The cast wheel repair service is nothing more than “external gloss guidance”, without directly restoring the consumer function of the wheel. The consequences of using such a wheel can be the most deplorable. From this we conclude that
cast aluminum wheels are not subject
In support of these words, one can cite an item from the list of Safety and Service Recommendations for rims published by the Association of European Wheel Manufacturers:
"Any repair of damage to the rim or disk by heating, welding, adding or removing material is absolutely prohibited"
In addition to filling cracks with argon welding, ignorant car service workers offer another option for repairing cast aluminum wheels — rolling. Let’s consider it in more detail.
Masters of private car service centers usually resort to rolling or straightening when a cast rim is deformed without cracks, in other words, it is bent, has convex deformations or an egg shape. This is usually found out at the next side during tire fitting. The wheel jumps in the machine and “hits”, this phenomenon is called statistical imbalance. You can only roll steel stamped rims, but few people know about it. The rim is placed in a special apparatus, which under high pressure straightens the surface of the seat.
Alloy alloy wheels should never be rolled!
So that the surface of the alloy wheel becomes pliable and able to change shape, it is heated with a burner. Recall that even local heating of the surface of an alloy wheel causes a thinning of the walls of its structure and, as a result, increases the risk of cracks and tears.
The only relatively safe way to straighten an alloy wheel is tapping without heating, and it is very gentle. Only after this operation should it be carefully rolled. Due to the time length and complexity of the process, not every qualified craftsman is taken for this repair. Real professionals in this case recommend just buying a new rim, since the price of such a long and “correct” repair is comparable to the price of a new wheel.
It is very simple to find out whether the alloy wheel was heated and repaired: the burner mark leaves an indelible stain during heating. To hide traces of heating, refurbished alloy wheels are painted.
If you have noticed deformed alloy wheels and signs of repair on them when buying a car with your hands during inspection, treat this with all responsibility. It’s not worth risking and driving "repaired" rims, you risk not only the integrity of the car, your health, but also the safety of other road users and pedestrians. "
And another reasonable argument …
"As with any parts in the body of the car, the issue of repair remains open with wheels. Everything in the car tends to become unusable over time (unless your iron horse is in the garage for eleven months of the year). that not only suspension elements fail. If you successfully hit the pits at a decent speed, there is a chance of damage to the disk. In addition to the pits on the roads, the wheels suffer from parking when hitting the curb. How many cases can happen?
In the best case, the disc will get rid of scratches or a barely noticeable dent in the rim. One could give up on this. But here comes the unpleasant moment when the master comes up to you at the tire fitting station and shrugs his hands — “Dear, your disc has a strong runout on the axis”. In severe cases, the disks burst either on the rim or in the rays. And even whole pieces of metal crack off altogether. The sight is deplorable. If the drives are also good and almost new, then doubly. There are no hopeless situations. So in the case of a breakdown of the output disk two. Either by closing your eyes, throw the wheel into the nearest ditch, or repair it. And if to repair, then how? And will the cast disk be repairable or is “medicine powerless”? Here are two main types of alloy wheel repair.
If damage is barely noticeable to the naked eye, then it is quite possible to try to give the cast disk for rolling to give it the same exact geometry. This procedure is performed on the same equipment as for steel disks. That is, they are pulled and rolled with a special hydraulic press with roller profiles. Geometry is controlled either by surface marking or by a laser meter.
In the case when the rim bent slightly and the damage itself recalls itself only by indications on the balancing and the number of "weights", then cold rolling is likely to restore the surface of the wheel. To eliminate a large dent, rolling will last an hour and a half (or even more). Very many masters, not wanting to fiddle with one wheel for a long time, without hesitation, when rolling, heat the disk with a blowtorch or welding, so that things go faster. Under no circumstances should you be allowed to do this, otherwise the disk of the khan.
Do not forget that cast alloy wheel has a solid crystalline metal structure. When locally heated to high temperatures, this whole structure is hopelessly destroyed, and stresses arise at the heating site. Can you imagine how fast a heavy disk rotates on an axis when a car moves? The slightest blow at a point of tension can generally split the wheel. And if you are going to drive a car at a speed of about a hundred at that time, then there is little funny.
So as soon as you see that the master grabbed the blowtorch and is going to warm your disk, remind him that this is extremely undesirable. If he insists on “yes, I did it a thousand times, everything will be fine” — take your disk and leave it. In the end, it is not the tiremaster who will drive the car with such a drive, but you.
Welding cast disc restored disc
This is already the most extreme measure that should not be taken. From a technical point of view, you can subordinate a disk with any damage. Even if it fell apart into several pieces, nothing is impossible. All this is just a matter of time and money. Modern arc welding machines in an inert gas environment (the so-called "argon welding") can eliminate cracks in the rim of the disk, and weld burst rays, and even weld the missing fragment of the rim.
A crack or other damaged part of the disk warms up to the full depth, boils on both sides and the crack is completely filled with metal. After the weld is filigree sanded and polished. After the wheel is thrown for balancing and handed to the owner with the words "as if just from the store."
But do not forget what is fraught with heating the disk.
If ordinary heating for straightening a cast disk is extremely undesirable, then what can we say about welding? The welding process itself, the material of the welding wire — all this is not right. The internal structure of the disk cannot be restored by any means. Someone may object, saying that everything is then carefully balanced with high accuracy. But here we are talking about the internal stresses of the metal after heat treatment. No one will guarantee that the cast disc will withstand 800-1000 rpm after welding, and even with a load of one third tons. Are you sure? That is the whole point. Destruction may happen the next day, or maybe six months later. This is roulette in its purest form, gentlemen.
So if a cast alloy wheel has burst for some reason or a piece has broken off, it’s better not to risk it and no matter how sorry it was (and wheels and money), it’s better to buy new ones.
Yes, and more. You need to be very careful about buying used alloy wheels. Some cunning comrades specially repair broken disks to sell them later and at least somehow compensate for the loss. They are welded, polished and polished. To avoid noticeable traces of metal heating, the wheels are painted with powder paint. Identify any signs of repair is possible only with the help of a flaw detector. But are there many who will check the wheels for hidden defects?
So it’s better not to risk it again. This is your life, it is one. "
Of course, it is clear that only every 100th or even 1000th will think about it.
(7700 people looked like 24 …)
I’ll just remind myself of something from Material Science
about welding alumin. alloys:
Welding Al_alloys .
"- not thermally hardenable alloys (alloy wheels)
lose all their strength …
— thermally hardened aluminum alloys (60XX "forging")
in state T6 lose 40% of their strength
— alloy 70XX 20%, respectively. "
And here is a graph of the loss of strength of "malleable alloys" at the weld site.
(It is obvious that for cast it is much worse than on the graph):
or if you want
from K & K’s official response:
"… at temperatures of 220-230 ° С alloy alloy wheels
TOTALLY lose their strength properties. "
Of course, this answer was about temperature
baking (polarization) of powder paints,
but the essence of this does not change .
Forced to draw the attention of the reader.
In the course of the text towards the end, for some reason, people lose the essence of what is happening.
Therefore, I recall the name of the epic:
"Why you can not use repair alloy wheels"
Further, various attempts at answers with clear explanations, including my modest knowledge about welding aluminum. alloys …
Well, the essence of all of the above (you can’t better prove — the Law!):
“Any repair of damage to a rim or disk by heating, welding, adding or removing material is strictly prohibited.” (EUWA — Association of European Wheel Manufacturers)
And finally, a fun "vidushka" …
Literate guys, drives that "had to break"
paved with stone pebbles in order to increase contact stress (for quick destruction)
their drives strictly in the sand and "drowned" for just the opposite …
(Why is it not clear, CKAD is a very durable product and therefore the heaviest)
On the other hand (literally), on the front of the drives
everyone equally got "in the face" with a caterpillar of a bulldozer.
1. CKAD Turin 6.5×16 disc weight: 8.93kg … … … price 4700rub
2. CKAD Venice "winner": 9.34kg … … … the price is 4920rub
3. The stamp. KFZ 8312 6.5×16 disk: 8.58kg (analogue of the test sample) … … price 3333rub
4. Slik L-209 classic forging: 6.78kg (not allowed to compete. Why? … no answer)